Types of Chimneys: How to Identify Yours and What Each One Needs

Use this table first. Stand outside and look at what comes out of your roof, then go inside and look at what the chimney connects to.

If you still cannot tell, the nameplate or label is your best clue. Factory-built fireplaces and listed chimney pipe carry a metal or foil label (often inside the fireplace opening, on the smoke shelf area, behind a louver, or on the pipe itself) naming the manufacturer, model and the safety standard it was tested to. A masonry chimney has no label.

Every chimney belongs to one category in each of the five systems below. A "stone, exterior, 1930s, wood-burning, open-fireplace masonry chimney" is a full description a sweep can quote from.

This is the classification most people mean when they ask "what kind of chimney do I have?" Construction decides whether you are dealing with a site-built structure governed by prescriptive code rules or a manufactured system that must be used exactly as its listing describes.

1. Masonry chimneys (brick, stone, concrete block)

Definition. A chimney built on site by a mason from brick, natural stone, concrete block, or a combination, usually with a clay tile flue lining inside. It rests on its own concrete footing and carries its own weight. The model code (International Residential Code, or IRC) sets out prescriptive rules for these chimneys in Section R1003. Under the 2021 IRC, masonry chimney walls must be at least 4 inches nominal thickness of solid masonry (R1003.10), the chimney must extend at least 3 feet above where it passes through the roof and at least 2 feet higher than any part of the building within 10 feet (R1003.9), and a cleanout opening must sit within 6 inches of the base of each flue (R1003.17).

Sub-types.

• Brick. The most common US masonry chimney. Solid clay brick laid in mortar, with clay tile flue liners in most houses built from roughly the mid-20th century onward. Older brick is often softer and more porous than modern brick, which matters when choosing repair mortar (see masonry chimneys).
• Stone. Fieldstone, river rock or cut stone. Some are solid stone; many are stone veneer over a block or brick core. Stone chimneys are heavier, harder to flash where they meet the roof because the surface is uneven, and more expensive to rebuild.
• Concrete block (CMU). Common in mid-century and utility construction, especially for furnace and water-heater flues in basements. Often stuccoed or veneered. Block is porous and needs a sound crown and cap to keep water out.
• Stucco-clad masonry. Brick or block covered with a cement plaster. The stucco hides cracks until water is already inside.

How to identify it. Look for mortar joints and a rectangular stack. On top you will usually see a concrete or mortar crown and one or more clay tiles. Inside, a masonry fireplace has a brick firebox (often firebrick, which is lighter-colored and larger than face brick) and a cast-iron damper above the opening.

Pros. Long-lived when kept dry, adds value and character, handles high temperatures, can hold multiple flues.

Cons. Heavy, expensive to build and rebuild, absorbs water, suffers freeze-thaw damage, and older ones may be unlined or have cracked tile liners.

Typical cost context (estimated national ranges, 2026 surveys). Sweeping a masonry wood-burning fireplace: $150–$375. Tuckpointing: $500–$2,500. Crown repair: $150–$700; crown rebuild: $1,000–$3,000. Stainless steel relining: $1,500–$5,000, up to about $7,000. Full rebuild: $4,000–$15,000.

When this type applies. Most US houses built before about 1970, many custom and high-end homes since, and nearly every basement furnace chimney in older housing.

2. Factory-built fireplace chimneys ("prefab," "zero-clearance")

Definition. A manufactured metal fireplace box plus a matching metal chimney pipe system, tested together as a unit. Under the IRC, factory-built fireplaces must be listed and labeled and installed according to their listing, tested to UL 127 (R1004.1), and factory-built chimneys must be listed and installed and terminated per the manufacturer's instructions (R1005.1). "Zero-clearance" means the firebox is designed to sit close to wood framing, not literally touching everything; required clearances are set by each manufacturer's instructions.

How to identify it. A metal firebox (often lined with molded refractory panels that look like brick but have no real mortar joints), a metal screen or glass doors, louvers above or below the opening, and a label. On the roof, look for a framed chase (a box of wood framing covered in siding, stucco or faux stone) with a sheet-metal chase cover on top and a round metal termination cap.

Pros. Much cheaper to install than masonry, lighter, can go almost anywhere.

Cons. Every part is brand- and model-specific. The chimney listed with the fireplace can generally only be used with that fireplace. Chase covers rust. After a chimney fire, CSIA advises that damaged factory-built metal chimneys should no longer be used and must be replaced.

Typical costs (estimated national ranges). Sweep: $90–$175. Chase cover: about $300–$700 installed. Metal/prefab chimney repairs average roughly $250–$1,200. Prefab wood fireplace with chimney, new: about $3,000–$8,000.

When this type applies. Most US tract and production homes built since the 1970s with a wood-burning fireplace, many condos and townhomes, and additions.

3. Class A metal chimneys (UL 103 / UL 103HT)

Definition. Double- or triple-wall stainless steel pipe (the "all-fuel" or "Class A" chimney) that serves solid-fuel appliances such as wood stoves, wood furnaces and some boilers. The IRC and the International Mechanical Code require factory-built chimneys serving solid-fuel appliances to meet the Type HT requirements of UL 103. The HT test adds three 10-minute exposures at 2,100°F on top of continuous testing at 1,000°F, which is why HT pipe is the standard for modern airtight and EPA-certified stoves.

Two designs.

• Insulated (solid-pack) pipe has insulation packed between the inner and outer walls. It keeps flue gases hot, which improves draft and reduces creosote. Most modern Class A pipe is insulated.
• Air-cooled pipe (double- or triple-wall) uses moving air between walls to keep the outside cool. It is mostly found on older factory-built fireplaces.

How to identify it. A round pipe, usually 6, 7 or 8 inches inside diameter for stoves, with a noticeably larger outside diameter (the insulation space), a storm collar at the roof, and a cap with a spark screen. Indoors, black single-wall stovepipe runs from the stove to a ceiling support box, where Class A pipe begins. Each section is labeled.

Pros. Relatively inexpensive, fast to install, warms up quickly, excellent draft when run up through the house.

Cons. Brand-specific parts; sections cannot be mixed between makers; needs specific clearances (commonly about 2 inches to combustibles for many brands, but the listing governs); must be replaced after a damaging chimney fire.

Typical costs. Class A pipe runs roughly $58–$80 per linear foot installed, about $1,200 for a typical 12-foot run (HomeGuide 2026). Sweeping a wood stove: $130–$300.

4. Type B gas vents ("B-vent")

Definition. Double-wall metal pipe (aluminum inner wall, galvanized steel outer wall) listed to UL 441, used for natural draft (Category I) gas appliances such as standard-efficiency furnaces, water heaters and some gas fireplaces with a draft hood. B-vent is not rated for wood, coal, or oil.

How to identify it. Thin round pipe, often 3–6 inches, marked "Type B Gas Vent." It usually starts at a draft hood above the water heater or furnace and runs up through an interior wall or chase to a small round cap. The International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC) requires a Type B or L vent to end at least 5 feet in vertical height above the highest connected appliance (Seattle 2021 Fuel Gas Code 503.6.6, which follows the IFGC).

Pros. Inexpensive and light, stays warm enough to limit condensation for natural-draft gas appliances.

Cons. Useless for solid fuel; corrodes if condensation forms; can be undersized or oversized when appliances are replaced.

Typical costs. Gas appliance vent inspection and cleaning typically falls in the gas service range of $80–$150.

5. Type L vents and pellet vents

Definition. Type L vent (listed to UL 641) is a double-wall vent for oil-burning appliances and certain other low-temperature appliances. Pellet vent (often labeled "PL") is a Type L–style double-wall pipe sold for pellet stoves; the pellet stove's own listing decides which vent is allowed. The International Mechanical Code limits Type L vents to oil-burning appliances and pellet vents to the pellet appliances they are listed with.

How to identify it. Pellet vent is usually 3 or 4 inches in diameter, often black or stainless, and frequently exits a side wall with a short horizontal run, then a tee and a cap. Joints are sealed with gaskets or high-temperature silicone because pellet stoves push exhaust under positive pressure.

Typical costs. Pellet stove venting cleaning: $130–$200.

See pellet stove vent cleaning and oil furnace flue cleaning.

6. Direct vent systems

Definition. A sealed, "balanced" system used by most modern gas fireplaces, inserts and some heaters. A coaxial pipe (a pipe inside a pipe) draws combustion air from outdoors through the outer pipe and sends exhaust out through the inner pipe. No indoor air is used for combustion, and the fireplace has a fixed glass front.

How to identify it. A sealed glass front that does not open for normal use, and an exterior termination cap on a wall or roof, often square. There is often no traditional chimney at all.

Pros. Efficient, safe from backdrafting when correctly installed, flexible placement.

Cons. Termination clearances to windows, doors, soffits and walkways are strict (the IFGC's Table 503.8 lists them). Glass and gaskets must be checked; cap screens clog with debris and insect nests.

Typical costs. Annual gas fireplace service: $80–$150 for cleaning and inspection; repairs often run $200–$1,000.

7. Plastic vents for condensing appliances (PVC, CPVC, polypropylene)

Definition. High-efficiency furnaces, boilers and water heaters (Category IV condensing appliances) extract so much heat that the exhaust is cool enough to vent through plastic pipe. The IFGC allows plastic piping only when the appliance is listed for it (IFGC 503.4.1).

How to identify it. White or gray plastic pipe, commonly 2 or 3 inches, one or two pipes, leaving through a side wall or roof. The furnace has a condensate drain line.

Pros. Cheap, corrosion-resistant, no chimney needed.

Cons. Terminations can ice over or be buried by snow; exhaust near windows and air intakes can re-enter the house; the switch to plastic often leaves the old chimney serving only a water heater (an "orphaned" water heater), which can then condense and corrode inside an oversized flue.

Why it matters to chimney owners. When a furnace moves off a masonry chimney, the IFGC requires the chimney or vent to be resized as needed to control condensation and provide draft for the appliances still using it (501.15.1). That often means installing a smaller liner for the water heater. See chimney liners.

Construction comparison table

The fuel decides what ends up on the flue walls and how hot and wet the flue runs. A chimney that is safe for one fuel can be unsafe for another, which is why switching fuels is one of the most common reasons a chimney needs a Level 2 inspection and often a new liner.

Wood-burning chimneys

Wood smoke leaves creosote, a tar-like, flammable residue that forms when smoke cools and condenses on the flue walls. CSIA describes it as black or brown and appearing in three broad forms: crusty and flaky, tar-like and sticky, or shiny and hardened glaze. All of it can burn. Wood-burning flues need to be sized to the fireplace or appliance, lined with material that can take high temperatures, and swept whenever deposits build up. CSIA guidance, following NFPA 211, is to inspect every chimney at least once a year and to sweep a masonry fireplace flue at about 1/8 inch of sooty buildup, sooner if any glaze is present. See creosote and how often to clean a chimney.

Chimney types that suit wood: lined masonry, factory-built fireplace chimneys listed to UL 127 (for the fireplace they were tested with), Class A UL 103HT pipe, and stainless steel liners listed for solid fuel.

Gas chimneys and vents

Natural gas and propane burn cleanly and leave little soot, but their exhaust contains a lot of water vapor. In a cold or oversized flue, that vapor condenses and mixes with combustion byproducts into a mildly acidic liquid that attacks mortar and clay tile. The fuel gas code requires masonry chimneys serving gas appliances to be lined with approved clay tile, a lining system listed to UL 1777, or another approved material, with an exception for lining systems listed specifically for draft-hood and Category I gas appliances (IFGC 503.5.3). Gas vents also attract birds and debris because they are not hot enough to discourage nesting.

Chimney types that suit gas: lined masonry, Type B vent, direct vent, plastic vent (condensing appliances only), aluminum or stainless liners listed for gas.

Oil chimneys

Oil burners produce soot and sulfur compounds. When an oil flue is not swept, soot can build up in the base of the chimney and in the connector pipe, and a clogged flue can push combustion gases, including carbon monoxide, back into the house. Oil flues are commonly swept at the same time as the burner's annual tune-up. See oil furnace flue cleaning and carbon monoxide and chimneys.

Chimney types that suit oil: lined masonry, Type L vent, stainless liners listed for oil.

Pellet chimneys and vents

Pellet stoves burn compressed wood pellets and use a fan to push exhaust out. Because the vent is under positive pressure, joints must be sealed. The ash is fine and fly-ash builds in the tees, elbows and cap; a pellet vent that is not cleaned can cause the stove to shut down or leak smoke. See pellet stove vent cleaning.

Chimney types that suit pellets: pellet vent listed with the stove, or a stainless liner in an existing masonry chimney where the stove's manual allows it.

Coal chimneys

Coal, mostly anthracite in the Northeast, burns hot and long and produces fly ash plus sulfur compounds that become acidic when combined with moisture. Coal-burning appliances need a chimney and liner listed for the fuel, and many stainless liner makers publish separate warranty terms for coal. Check the liner's documentation before connecting a coal stove to any existing liner.

Multi-fuel chimneys

A "multi-fuel" or "all-fuel" chimney is one listed or built to serve more than one solid fuel (for example wood and coal) or a combination appliance (for example a wood/oil boiler). Class A pipe is often marketed as "all-fuel." The practical rule is that each flue serves only what its listing or code allows, and appliances generally cannot share a flue with a solid-fuel appliance. When in doubt, ask the sweep to check the listing label and the appliance manual.

Fuel comparison table

Two chimneys of the same construction and fuel can still need very different care depending on what is burning at the bottom.

Open masonry fireplace (standard design)

Definition. A site-built brick or stone firebox with an open front, a damper, a smoke shelf and a smoke chamber (the funnel-shaped space above the damper that narrows into the flue). The 2021 IRC requires a firebox depth of at least 20 inches (R1001.6), a throat or damper at least 8 inches above the lintel (R1001.7), firebox walls of at least 8 inches including a 2-inch firebrick lining or 10 inches of solid masonry (R1001.5), and a hearth extension at least 16 inches in front and 8 inches beyond each side of openings under 6 square feet, or 20 inches and 12 inches for larger openings (R1001.10).

Flue sizing. For a masonry fireplace, the IRC sets the minimum flue area as a fraction of the fireplace opening: at least 1/12 of the opening for round flues, 1/10 for square flues, and 1/8 for rectangular flues with an aspect ratio of 2:1 or more (R1003.15.1). A fireplace with a 36-by-30-inch opening (1,080 square inches) therefore needs roughly 90 square inches of round flue or 108 square inches of square flue.

Maintenance. Sweep the flue, smoke chamber and smoke shelf; check the firebox mortar joints (the IRC limits firebrick joints to 1/4 inch); check the damper seal.

Cost. Masonry wood fireplace sweep $150–$375; firebox repair about $150–$1,000; smoke chamber parging about $800–$2,000.

Rumford fireplace (and how it differs from a standard fireplace)

Definition. A tall, shallow fireplace with widely angled side walls and a streamlined throat, designed by Benjamin Thompson (Count Rumford), who published his fireplace papers in 1796 and 1798. Rumford fireplaces were common from the 1790s to about 1850; Monticello has them. They reflect more heat into the room than a deep standard fireplace. The IRC permits Rumford fireboxes with a depth of at least 12 inches and at least one-third of the width (R1001.6 exception).

Rumford vs standard fireplace

Maintenance. The same as any masonry fireplace, but Rumfords are sensitive to flue size and to anything that changes the throat, such as a poorly fitted damper retrofit. Owners often add a top-sealing damper rather than altering the throat.

Masonry heater

Definition. A massive wood-fired masonry appliance that burns a hot, fast fire and stores the heat in internal channels of brick or stone. The Masonry Heater Association says the stored heat slowly radiates into the house for the next 18 to 24 hours. Masonry heaters (also called Finnish, Russian or Kachelofen-style heaters) are not ordinary fireplaces.

How to identify it. A very large masonry mass, often in the middle of a room, with a small, tight-fitting cast-iron or glass door, no open hearth, and sometimes a heated bench.

Maintenance. The internal heat-exchange channels need periodic cleaning through dedicated cleanout doors. Because the fire burns hot, creosote is usually light, but the channels still collect fly ash.

Regulation note. The EPA's 2015 wood heater rule does not currently set emission limits for masonry heaters; EPA held off to allow development of test methods.

Cost. Few sweeps service them; expect specialist rates quoted by the hour ($50–$200/hour national labor range).

Fireplace insert

Definition. A wood, gas or pellet heater that slides into an existing masonry or factory-built fireplace opening. An insert turns an inefficient open fireplace into a closed appliance. Inserts must be listed for installation in the specific kind of fireplace, and a wood insert needs its own liner; the fireplace flue alone is almost always far too large.

Why the liner matters. The International Mechanical Code limits the flue area for a solid-fuel appliance to no more than three times the area of the appliance's flue collar (IMC 801.7). A 6-inch insert collar has about 28 square inches of area; an 8-by-12 clay tile flue can have well over 60 square inches of usable area, so the insert would vent into a flue more than double what it needs, cooling the smoke and building creosote fast. A full-height stainless liner sized to the collar solves this.

Cost. Insert with installation typically runs about $3,000–$8,000+ (HomeGuide 2026); liner $1,500–$5,000 of that when needed. See fireplace inserts.

Freestanding wood or pellet stove

Definition. A cast-iron or steel stove on legs or a pedestal, connected by single-wall or double-wall stovepipe to a Class A chimney or a lined masonry chimney. Since May 15, 2020, new wood stoves sold in the US must meet EPA's Step 2 limit of 2.0 grams of particulate per hour (2.5 g/h when tested with cord wood).

Maintenance. Sweep the stovepipe and the chimney together; check the stovepipe for rust and secure joints (sheet-metal screws at each joint is standard practice); check the cap screen, which clogs faster on wood stoves than on fireplaces.

Cost. Sweep $130–$300. New freestanding stove installed roughly $2,500–$7,500.

Furnace, boiler and water heater flues

Definition. The flue that carries exhaust from central heating and water heating equipment, usually in the basement or utility room. In older houses this is often a separate flue in the same masonry chimney as the fireplace; in newer homes it is a B-vent, a Type L vent, or plastic pipe.

Common issues. Unlined or crumbling tile flues; oversized flues after a furnace is replaced; rusted connector pipes; debris collecting at the base; birds or animals in an uncapped flue.

Cost. Flue inspection as part of annual heating service. An aluminum or stainless liner for a gas water heater costs less than a wood liner because it is smaller and uninsulated; HomeGuide lists aluminum liners at about $625–$2,250 installed.

Appliance comparison table

The age of a house is one of the best predictors of what a sweep will find inside the chimney. The dates below are broad patterns, not rules; local building practice varied, and many chimneys have been rebuilt or relined since they were first built.

Colonial and early American center chimney (1600s–early 1800s)

What it is. A massive central masonry stack, often brick or stone, serving several fireplaces on different floors and sometimes a beehive oven. The house was built around it.

What to expect. No flue liners. Lime-based mortar, which is soft and breathable. Wood framing may sit very close to or even touch the masonry, well inside the 2-inch clearance the modern IRC requires for interior chimneys (R1003.18). Fireplaces may be shallow Rumford-style or earlier deep cooking hearths.

Typical work. Repointing with a lime mortar that matches the original (the National Park Service's Preservation Brief 2 says repointing mortar must be as soft or softer and as vapor-permeable as the historic mortar); relining with a stainless or cast-in-place liner before regular use; checking framing clearances.

Victorian and late 19th-century multi-flue chimneys (about 1840–1910)

What it is. Tall, often decorative chimneys with corbelled (stepped-out) tops and several flues, one for each coal or wood fireplace or stove in the house. Many rooms had small coal-burning fireplaces with cast-iron surrounds.

What to expect. Often unlined or lined only with a parge (a mortar coating) that has eroded. Soft brick, lime mortar, decorative tops that are exposed to weather on all sides. Interior flues may have been abandoned and covered with plaster, sometimes with a stovepipe thimble hole left behind.

Typical work. Rebuilding the top several courses above the roofline (the part most exposed to freeze-thaw), capping unused flues, relining any flue that will be used, and sealing abandoned thimbles properly.

1920s–1950s chimneys

What it is. Brick chimneys serving a living-room fireplace plus a separate furnace flue (coal, later converted to oil or gas). Clay tile liners became increasingly common during this era; a commonly cited reference point is that many codes began requiring flue liners in new chimneys from the 1950s onward.

What to expect. Clay tile liners with cracked or open joints, a furnace flue that now serves only a gas water heater, a deteriorated mortar crown, and original flashing. Portland cement mortars began replacing lime mortars during this period.

Typical work. Level 2 inspection with camera; relining the furnace/water-heater flue after a furnace upgrade; crown rebuild; flashing replacement ($300–$1,800).

1960s–1970s masonry

What it is. Brick or block chimneys, often exterior on ranch houses, with clay tile liners and modern portland cement mortars. Many were built with a single fireplace flue and a separate appliance flue.

What to expect. Liner joints cracked from years of use; crowns built as flat, thin mortar caps that crack; missing caps; water damage to the smoke chamber.

Post-1970 prefab and chase construction

What it is. Factory-built fireplaces and metal chimneys enclosed in wood-framed chases, common in suburban tract housing from the 1970s onward and standard in much new construction today.

What to expect. Rusted chase covers that let water into the chase; cracked refractory panels; creosote in the metal flue; discontinued parts for older models; aftermarket glass doors or gas logs installed without checking the listing.

Typical work. Chase cover replacement ($300–$700), refractory panel replacement, cap replacement, and at end of life either replacing the fireplace with a matching new listed unit or converting to an insert (see prefabricated chimneys).

Era summary table

Interior chimneys

Definition. A chimney that rises through the middle of the house and only exposes the portion above the roof to the weather.

Why it matters. The flue stays warm because the house surrounds it. Warm flues draft better and collect less creosote and condensation. Interior chimneys also lose less masonry to freeze-thaw, since only the top is exposed.

Code note. The IRC requires at least 2 inches of airspace between an interior masonry chimney and combustible framing (R1003.18), and the gaps where the chimney passes through floors and ceilings must be fireblocked with noncombustible material (R1003.19).

Exterior chimneys

Definition. A chimney built against an outside wall, with three sides exposed to weather for its full height.

Why it matters. The flue runs colder, especially at start-up, so the fireplace can smoke until the flue warms, and more creosote and condensation form. Masonry weathers on all exposed faces. Exterior chimneys can pull away from the house when the footing settles.

Code note. Chimneys located entirely outside the exterior walls need at least 1 inch of airspace to combustibles (R1003.18).

Typical fixes. Insulated stainless liners (which keep the flue gas warm), top-sealing dampers, waterproofing ($150–$820), and for leaning chimneys, a structural evaluation.

Follow these steps in order. You can do steps 1–6 safely from the ground and inside the house; leave the roof to a professional.

1. Look at the roof from the street or yard with binoculars. Note whether the chimney is masonry, a framed chase, or bare round pipe. Count the tiles or pipes on top; each one is usually a separate flue.
2. Walk around the house. Is the chimney inside the roof line (interior) or running up an outside wall (exterior)? Is there a cleanout door near the base outside or in the basement?
3. Look inside the fireplace with a flashlight. Brick with mortar joints means masonry. Smooth panels with molded "brick" lines and a metal frame mean factory-built. A glass front that does not open means direct vent gas.
4. Find the label. Factory-built fireplaces usually have a metal label near the opening, behind the lower louver or on the side of the firebox. Photograph it. Class A and B-vent pipe is labeled on each section.
5. Trace every appliance. In the basement or utility room, follow the pipes from the furnace, boiler and water heater. A pipe entering a brick wall means those appliances share the masonry chimney (usually a separate flue). White plastic pipes mean a condensing appliance that no longer uses the chimney.
6. Check your records. Home inspection reports, permit records from your local building department, and seller disclosures often state the chimney type and any relining.
7. Book a Level 1 or Level 2 inspection. A sweep can confirm the type, measure the flue, check the liner and match it to the appliance. If you have just bought the home, or you plan to change fuel or add an insert, a Level 2 (camera) inspection is the right choice. See chimney inspection levels.

Homeowner identification checklist

• Roof: masonry stack / framed chase / bare metal pipe / wall termination
• Number of flues visible on top
• Interior or exterior chimney
• Firebox: brick with mortar / refractory panels / sealed glass
• Label found and photographed (manufacturer, model, listing standard)
• Appliances connected: fireplace, insert, stove, furnace, boiler, water heater
• Fuel for each flue: wood, gas, oil, pellet, coal
• Cap present on each flue
• Crown or chase cover condition (cracks, rust)
• Any liner visible at the top (clay tile, stainless pipe)
• Previous sweep or inspection reports on file
• Year the house was built and any known rebuild or relining

The table below pulls together what each type typically needs each year and what common repairs cost. Prices are estimated national ranges based on 2026 HomeGuide and Angi surveys; local labor costs move them up or down.

For a full breakdown see chimney sweep cost and chimney repair cost.

The scenarios below are illustrative, not real customers. Costs are estimated ranges based on 2026 national surveys (HomeGuide/Angi) and will vary with local labor rates, access and roof pitch.